La Piotta is a vineyard located in Montalto Pavese, in the heart of Oltrepò Pavese: a historic region of Lombardy, famous for its still wines and sparkling wines made from Pinot Noir, the king grape of the area since the second half of the 19th century.
The Padroggi family currently oversees a 15-hectare vineyard. Its history began in 1985 with the founder, grandfather Luigi; management was then passed on to his sons, Gabriele and Mario, and then to the third generation, now represented by his grandsons Luca and his cousin Enrico.
In addition to Pinot Noir, the estate cultivates the most representative grape varieties of the terroir, such as Riesling (Rhine and Italic), Pinot Gris, Croatina, and Barbera.
As a guarantee of demanding quality, all wines are certified organic and carry the FIVI label (Independent Winemakers), ensuring authenticity and the direct link between the winemaker, their land, and their bottle.
Why I chose this estate
For its ability to be the authentic interpreter of its terroir and for its willingness to innovate while respecting tradition. What particularly pleases me about the path taken by La Piotta in recent years is its constant pursuit of quality and its spirit of experimentation, which is fully expressed, especially in the creation of its sparkling wines.
The story at the heart of the bottle
Since my childhood, I spent many Sundays in Oltrepò with my family. My father, who loved good wine at the table, had found a producer in the region;
thus, about twice a year, we organised a getaway to the countryside with three or four other families and their children, both to stock up on wine and to spend a joyful day. The must-do stop was lunch at the trattoria "La Pesa", where we spent entire afternoons between endless meals and games in the garden, before returning to the city exhausted but happy and, above all, the boot full of bottles.
In my teenage years, I began to familiarise myself with the taste of this wine – which was preferred sparkling at the time – and I was struck by the labels displaying the names of the grape varieties. Even though they didn't mean much to me yet, they were already educating my palate. Over the years, it has always been difficult for me to replace the wine from Oltrepò at the table with anything else.
When I started my training as a sommelier and taster, I had the opportunity to take a few courses directly at the estate, and the school was offering the La Piotta estate from Montalto Pavese. In November 2017, I met Luca who, along with his cousin Enrico, had just taken over the reins of the business alongside his father and his grandfather Luigi, the founder.
I remember that, during his presentation, Luca confided to us that, not being too fond of studies, he preferred the manual work of the vineyard. It was there, amidst the steel tanks, in the coolness of the cellar and among the purple stains on the floor, that I rediscovered that characteristic smell of wine from the Sundays of my childhood, when I accompanied my father to taste the wine directly from the barrel.
Luca's wines are the expression of an authentic, direct and unembellished terroir, much like its inhabitants: hills sculpted with vineyards that gently arch their backs to the morning sun, warming clusters full of promises.
Over the years, I have seen La Piotta's evolution turn towards an ever more demanding quality. They have focused on local grape varieties, such as Italic Riesling and Pinot Gris, as well as on enhancing Pinot Noir in the production of sparkling wines. This philosophy is reflected in the diversification of their bubbles, in the choice to prioritise still wines over sparkling ones, and in the abandonment of white winemaking for Pinot Noir. And while my father remains one of the last loyalists of the sparkling wines of yesteryear, I am enthusiastically following the contemporary turn of the estate, while keeping my own tastes.
Finally, I find it magnificent the deep respect that the company shows to the patriarch of the family. A range of wines has indeed been dedicated to grandfather Luigi, including a Méthode Classique aged 100 months on lees, named "2 Agosto" (2 August) in honour of his birth date – a sparkling wine that I hope to have the opportunity to taste soon. In this tribute, I see a profound recognition of the previous generations and the family roots, a rare value that, in our current society, seems almost to belong to the past.
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